What is retinol and how is it produced?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A, a nutrient essential to the proper functioning of our bodies. Vitamin A plays a key role in maintaining healthy skin. In cosmetics, retinol is particularly appreciated for its anti-wrinkle, anti-spot and anti-blemish properties, as well as for its ability to improve skin texture overall.
Chemically speaking, retinol is an alcohol derived from retinal, a compound directly related to vision. Retinol can be obtained by chemical synthesis or extraction from animal sources, mainly liver and eggs. In cosmetics, most retinols are used synthetically, which makes it possible to control their concentration and stability.
What are the benefits of retinol?
Retinol is mainly recognized for its beneficial effects on skin aging and the treatment of skin imperfections. Its main benefits include:
1. Stimulates cell renewal: Retinol helps exfoliate dead cells from the skin's surface, enabling cell renewal. The result is smoother, softer skin and a more even complexion.
2. Collagen production: By stimulating fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen production, retinol contributes to skin firmness and elasticity. This helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Reducing hyperpigmentation: Retinol is effective in reducing pigmentation spots, whether due to sun, age or acne scars. It acts by inhibiting the production of melanin, which is responsible for these spots.
4. Acne treatment: Thanks to its exfoliating and sebum-regulating properties, retinol is often used to treat mild to moderate acne. It helps unclog pores and prevent the formation of new breakouts.
What effect does retinol have on the skin?
Retinol's effect on the skin is both profound and varied, but it can also be irritating, especially when first used. When applied to the skin, retinol is converted into retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A that interacts with cell receptors. This conversion stimulates cell regeneration and collagen production, improving skin texture, reducing wrinkles and evening out skin tone.
However, the use of retinol can lead to side effects, particularly during the adaptation period. Skin may become dry, red and peeling. That's why we recommend starting with low concentrations and gradually increasing the frequency of application. It's also crucial to use it in conjunction with a moisturizing cream to minimize the risk of irritation.
When not to use retinol?
Despite its many benefits, retinol is not suitable for everyone or for every situation. It should not be used in the following cases:
1. Pregnancy and lactation: Retinoids, including retinol, are generally not recommended during pregnancy and lactation due to the potential risk of congenital malformations. It is preferable to consult a physician before considering the use of retinol-containing products during this period.
2. Sensitive skin: People with very sensitive skin or conditions such as rosacea may find retinol too irritating. In this case, it's advisable to opt for gentler alternatives, such as Bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinol.
3. Significant sun exposure: Retinol makes the skin more sensitive to the sun, increasing the risk of sunburn and skin damage. It is essential to apply it at night and use adequate sun protection during the day.
4. Damaged skin: On sunburned, irritated or cut skin, retinol can aggravate inflammation. It is preferable to wait until the skin has completely healed before using it again.
What are the side effects of retinol?
The use of retinol can cause several side effects, particularly during the first applications:
1. Irritation and dryness: One of the most common side effects is skin irritation, manifested by redness, scaling and burning.
2. Increased sun sensitivity: As mentioned, retinol increases skin sensitivity to UV rays, requiring daily application of sun protection.
3. Temporary worsening phase: Some people may experience a temporary worsening of acne during the first few weeks of use, as retinol accelerates the cell life cycle.
4. Depigmentation: In rare cases, the use of retinol may cause skin depigmentation, especially in people with darker skin.
A plant-based alternative: Bakuchiol
Faced with the potential drawbacks of retinol, natural alternatives such as plant retinol, or bakuchiol, have gained in popularity. Extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, bakuchiol is a natural ingredient that mimics the effects of retinol without causing irritation. Studies have shown that bakuchiol, a Plant Retinol, offers similar benefits in terms of wrinkle reduction, improved skin texture and acne treatment, while being much gentler and better tolerated by sensitive skin.
So, for those looking for a more natural and gentle option, Plant Retinol represents an interesting alternative, offering comparable results to synthetic retinol without the harsh side effects. Yodi has developed Rétinol-Like Végétal, a 100% natural oil serum with a 2% concentration of Bakuchiol, mimicking the effects of retinol without the irritation. Enriched with antioxidant coffee oil, first cold-pressed argan oil and prebiotics to reinforce the skin barrier, this serum offers a gentle, effective solution to your skin's needs, while respecting its sensitivity.
Non-photosensitizing, it can be applied morning or evening on its own or as part of a routine!
In conclusion, retinol remains a key ingredient in the fight against skin aging, but it must be used with care. For those who prefer to avoid irritation, plant retinol could well be the best ally for healthy, radiant skin.
