Choisir un produit de beauté naturel et responsable

Every day, a woman in France applies more than 16 beauty and hygiene products a day according to a study by LLERCO (L'Institut d'Evaluation du Risque Consommateur) carried out in 2016 on over 20,000 people in France. It's even 18 products for pregnant women! And it was already 8 products for men, who are taking more and more care of themselves. No wonder the desire to know what we put on our skin and hair is so strong. Understanding the composition of our beauty products, knowing where our ingredients come from in complete transparency, that's what Conscious Beauty is all about.

To help you in this search, we offer you this guide to the composition of your beauty products.

So follow the guide!

The INCI list: to know the composition of your beauty products

Have you ever paid attention to everything on the label on the back of your beauty products?

"International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients". This list lists every ingredient used by beauty product manufacturers. However, there are a few points to bear in mind:

Ingredients are listed in descending order, i.e. the first ingredient on the list is the one present in greatest quantity. For example, a product whose INCI list begins with "Aqua" or "Water" means that it is mostly composed of water.
Below 1%, ingredients may be presented in any order and end up at the end of the list. This means that a controversial preservative (e.g. Phenoxyethanol) with a dosage of 0.8% could be found after an essential oil (e.g. Lavandula Angustifolia oil) with a dosage of 0.1%.
Allergens are mentioned at the end of the list (see List of 26 allergenic substances). Perfumes and aromatic compounds are grouped together under the name "fragrance" or "parfum". When the fragrance is natural or of natural origin, this term is generally added. Otherwise, it's a synthetic perfume.
Botanical active ingredients are named in Latin, usually followed by "extract" for plant extracts or "oil" for vegetable oils (e.g. Simmondsia Chinensis oil for jojoba oil, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower extract for hibiscus flower acid).
Chemical and synthetic substances are listed in English (e.g. Potassium Sorbate, Glyceryl Stearate).
Colorants are identified by the letters "CI" (Color Index) followed by 5 digits, e.g. "CI 77491" for yellow.

There are applications such as Clean Beauty or Yuka among others, which can help you decipher INCI lists.

The different types of ingredients found in beauty products, including natural and organic products.

Product families

In concrete terms, here are the different families of ingredients found in your beauty products:

- The aqueous phase Aqueous phase: composed of over 80% water for emulsions, i.e. creams, shampoos, skincare products, serums, body lotions, etc. It is mainly used as a solvent to solubilize active ingredients (hyaluronic acid, glycerin, etc.). In natural beauty products, water can be replaced by a hydrolat, obtained by distillation of a plant-based raw material, or by thermal spring water. Today, there are solid natural or organic beauty products. In this case, they contain very little water and come in the form of soaps. To avoid wasting water, discover new water-free silky powder textures for your shampoos and facial cleansers. These innovative new textures are ready-to-use natural beauty products that transform under the water of your shower or sink.

- The fatty or oily phase which may be composed of several types of ingredients such as :

Ingredients of animal origin : these are either derived from or produced by animals (beeswax, silk, lanolin, honey...). You may find them in natural beauty products, but they are absent from vegan products.

Did you know? Keratin is a raw material generally derived from sheep's wool. In fact, it's the material that's closest to the keratin in our hair!

Plant-derived ingredients : extracted from plants (aloe vera, jojoba oil, shea butter, etc.). These are the ingredients we look for in natural products or products of natural origin.

Marine ingredients : derived from marine resources (algae, collagen, etc.). They are increasingly used in both conventional and natural/organic cosmetics, and we have not finished discovering the benefits of marine-derived active ingredients for our natural beauty products.

Mineral ingredients : derived from rocks, sediments, sand, etc. (coal, clay, zinc, etc.). For example, vegetal charcoal absorbs impurities and is a super-active natural cleanser, provided it contains no heavy metals. Well-sourced and coupled with zinc pidolate, it is perfect in a natural cleanser for oily or blemish-prone skin.

Synthetic ingredients (silicones, mineral oils, etc.) should be avoided if you are looking for a natural composition.

Biotechnological ingredients : derived from micro-organisms, plant cells, etc. (prebiotics obtained from natural sugars).

- Foaming agents As the name suggests, they are used to make products foam (e.g. Sodium Cocoy Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaïn). Certain irritating or chemical foaming agents are not authorized in natural or organic cosmetics. However, the Bio label accepts sulfate-based surfactants in its charter for natural and organic beauty products, so if you're avoiding sulfates in your shampoos, be as vigilant about the composition as you are about the label. The Bio label is not a guarantee that your product will not contain irritants, allergens or sulfates.

- Emulsifiers to promote and stabilize emulsion formation (soy lecithin, sugar esters, coconut oil derivatives)

- Thickeners and/or gelling agents to give a particular texture to the formula (Xanthan Gum, Carbomer)

- Preservatives, colorants and fragrances.

What ingredients should I look out for?

- Mineral oils Mineral oils: they have emollient properties (softening the skin). However, these oils are known to create an occlusive film on the skin, which limits its natural water loss and prevents its self-regulation. What's more, they can block the skin's pores, making them comedogenic (e.g. Paraffinum Liquidum, Ozokerite, Mineral oil).

Did you know? The "Oil free" label on your cosmetics means that the formula contains no mineral oils, but may include vegetable oils.

- Silicones Silicones: give the illusion of softness, but in reality have no nourishing effect. What's more, they clog skin pores and are not very biodegradable. Silicones envelop hair fibers, making them soft and supple. But in reality, silicone will suffocate the hair and ultimately damage it (e.g. Trisiloxane, Dimethicone).

- Sulfated surfactants Sulfated surfactants: these are foaming, cleansing and emulsifying agents (used to disperse fats in water). They are found in conventional shampoos and shower gels, but also in cleaning products such as dishwashing liquid and detergents. They can be highly irritating to the scalp, drying and allergenic (e.g. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate).

- PEGs PEGs: derived from petrochemicals, their manufacturing process is one of the most polluting in the cosmetics sector. Manufacturers use them for their thickening and emulsifying properties. They can be recognized by their names, which often include the terms PEG or PPG, but also by names beginning with "Propylene" (e.g. Polyethylene glycol, PEG-10 Dimethicone).

- Preservatives Preservatives: essential when a cosmetic product formula contains water, they prevent the development of bacteria. Preservatives are sometimes criticized for being allergenic or irritating. According to Annex V of Regulation 1223/2009, their dosage is regulated (e.g. Benzoic acid dosed at a maximum of 2.5% in rinse-off products, except for oral care products, and 0.5% for leave-on products; Potassium sorbate dosed at a maximum of 0.6%, Phenoxyethanol dosed at a maximum of 1%).

- Aluminum salts These antiperspirants are suspected of being carcinogenic and of having a long-term impact on the nervous system. However, according to a study (2014) by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and a report by the Agence Française de Sécurité Sanitaire des Produits de Santé (AFSSPS) published in 2011, the studies carried out are inconclusive. AFSSPS recommends not exceeding a concentration of 0.6% aluminum salt in products (e.g. Aluminum Chlorohydrate, Sodium Aluminum Chlorohydroxy Lactate).

- Allergens Allergens: fragrances in beauty products contain allergens, and as their name suggests, they can cause allergic reactions or irritation in people who are sensitive to them. Some of these substances are therefore regulated to limit the risk of allergies (see List of 26 allergenic substances).

Legal notices to know

Each cosmetic product label must include certain information, such as :

Name and address of manufacturer or person responsible for placing the product on the market
The country of origin of products manufactured outside the European Union
Special precautions for use
Product function
Product quantity
INCI list
Manufacturing batch number
Use-by date (DLU: Date Limite d'Utilisation) when durability is less than 30 months
Optimum shelf life after opening or "OSP". 12M means that the product will keep for 12 months after opening.

Natural beauty product labels and certifications

Since January 1, 2017, the COSMOS label (COSMetic Organic Standard) has been the new standard in terms of Natural and Organic Beauty Products. This label was developed by 5 founding members: Cosmebio (France), ECOCERT (France), BDIH (Germany), ICEA (Italy) and Soil Association (Great Britain).

To promote the use of organic products and respect biodiversity. The COSMOS standard is guided by four fundamental principles:

Use natural resources responsibly andwith respect for the environment
Use clean processes and respect human health and the environment
Integrate and develop the concept of green chemistry "

COSMOS offers 2 certifications

COSMOS ORGANIC :

At least 95% of the product's ingredients must be of natural origin.
Of all ingredients that can be organic (water is not considered an organic ingredient), at least 95% must be.
At least 20% of the product's ingredients must be organic, and at least 10% for rinse-off products.

Did you know? 2% petrochemicals are allowed in the finished product, palm oil and its derivatives are allowed as long as they are organic, and there are no restrictions on esterified and hydrogenated oils.

COSMOS NATURAL :

At least 95% of the product's ingredients must be of natural origin (including water).
The level of petrochemical ingredients is limited.

Please note that these labels authorize certain sulfated surfactants (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Coco Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Coco Sulfate) and 6preservatives (Benzoic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid and Denatonium Benzoate). And there are no restrictions on the presence of allergens.

There are other labels/organizations, here are a few:

Natrue (one of the most demanding labels)
Slow cosmetics (organization)
Nature et Progrès (association)

Did you know? Some labels certify an organic cosmetics product when it contains at least 10% organic ingredients.

What's more, to be able to claim the % of ingredients of natural or organic origin, we need to refer to ISO 16128. This is an international standard used to define processes and quality. It describes methods for calculating Natural, Natural Origin, Organic and Organic Origin Indices. These are used to calculate the natural and organic percentages of a finished product.

What are the environmental pictograms?

In addition to label and certification logos, product packaging also features environmental pictograms. Here are the most common:

The green dot Green Dot: means that the company contributes to financing a system for managing, sorting and recycling packaging waste.
The Möbius strip informs us that the packaging is fully or partially recyclable.
Triman means that the product is recyclable.
Tidy man means that waste should be disposed of in a conventional garbage can.
FSC/PEFC These logos indicate that the wood used in product packaging comes from sustainably managed forests.

Did you know? Each product is identified by a "batch number", usually found on the back of the bottle or jar. It allows us to trace the product and know the production date if you have a complaint about the product.

Comparing a Yodi product with a conventional product

Yodi products have been created for all those who want to take care of their skin as well as their diet. Our products are of natural origin for the beauty of your skin and hair. What sets Yodi apart from other brands?

1) Yodi is a Conscious Beauty brand. All product ingredients have been sourced for their efficacy and safety on the skin and scalp. The products contain less than 11 ingredients, all of natural origin. The composition of the products appears on the front of the packaging, and each ingredient is translated for greater transparency. Conventional products, including natural and organic beauty products, often contain a long list of ingredients (emulsifiers, silicones, preservatives, allergens, etc.).

2) YODI products are powderedready-to-use and formulated without water which means we don't add preservatives. What's more, they contain no controversial ingredients, no listed allergens, no ingredients of animal origin, no silicones and no sulfates. Shampoo fragrances are of natural origin and allergen-free. We give priority to organic active ingredients in our minimalist formulas.

Yodi products are rated 100/100 on Yuka and approved by Clean Beauty!

At Yodi, we have chosen to list the ingredients on the front of the product, with their translation and the INCI list on the back. Our ingredient list is written in a simplified way, putting the most differentiating ingredients first.

For example, you can find "Hibiscus Flower Acids " followed by its INCI name on the front and "Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract" in the INCI list on the back of the pack.

This method enables consumers to to clearly identify without having to decipher chemical or Latin names.

YODI cleansing formulas are 100% natural origin according to ISO 16128 and 94% for shampoos.

Yodi offers powder shampoos and powder cleansers for every kind of beauty. For men and women, our beauty products are natural and adapted to the needs of skin and hair.

Did you know? YODI packaging is made from endlessly recyclable aluminum! Labels are made from wood cellulose.

As for our service capsules, they are made from recyclable PP plastic. You can send them back to us and they will be upcycled. In fact, we've found a French company that recycles small plastic parts that don't pass through sorting centers and would otherwise be incinerated...