Nos conseils pour en finir avec les cheveux fourchus

You've already taken the initiative to cut your hair every month, but the split ends are back the following month. So you cut your hair again, and it still doesn't grow. Your ends have a straw-like appearance and no matter how much conditioner you use, the straw is still there, but you now have greasy or even ultra-greasy roots. When you go out in the sun, in a swimming pool full of chlorine or in the sea, you apply masks to your lengths but you have the impression that they don't produce any effect? 

 If you recognize yourself in the preceding lines, look no further than this article. 

At Yodi, we have dry, curly, frizzy, highlighted and color-treated hair, and for years we've tried every care product and shampoo on the market for our hair types... To no avail.

We've tried out every hairdresser's treatment, from heat-applied masks and ozone vapor to the renowned Tokyo treatment! We even tried cutting our ends on full-moon days...

And today: With a much simpler and more effective routine, a good sulfate-free shampoo, natural treatments and masks, we have stronger hair that doesn't grease as quickly. Curls are better defined, color ages better and, above all, we've solved our split-ends problem!

So to wage war on split ends, go HERE.

Split ends: why do they separate?

Hair from root to tip 

Wouldn't it be great if we could explain where these unfortunate forks come from before giving you our best tips for getting rid of them as much as possible? 

So here we are, Breaking news: the hair is dead, but the scalp is very much alive. Sounds a bit confusing, so we'll explain. 

Hair grows at a rate of about 1 mm a day, or 12 to 15 cm a year. As with nails, the visible part of the hair is made up of dead cells. It's not this part that grows and lengthens, but the inner part. Hair continually renews itself: its life cycle is 3 years for men and 5 to 10 years for women. Your hair grows continuously until it stops growing and falls out. Normally, between 50 and 100 hairs fall out every day. And this whole process is also influenced by factors such as : 

• location: hair grows faster at the top of the head, slower at the nape of the neck
• sex 
• ethnicity
• age
• seasons, etc.

What is split ends?

At this point, we feel it is essential to tell you what makes up a hair, so that you can visualize the problem: 

• 81% keratin, a tough, fibrous protein produced by dedicated keratinocyte cells. Keratinocytes are found at the bottom of the hair follicle, itself located in the thickness of the scalp. 
• 15% water
• 3% lipids
• 1% melanin, an amino acid responsible for hair, skin and eye color. If you're a fan of intensive summer tanning, you've probably read that word somewhere.

Split ends are hair lacking in keratin. 

Keratin, the secret of radiant hair

If you've read the composition of hair above, you'll have noticed that Keratin makes up 81% of your hair. So it's THE part you need to focus on for a dream mane. 

Keratin gives your hair tensile strength - one hair can withstand 90g - and absorbency, so if we translate it into English, it gives you hair that's firmly in place on your scalp, and hair that absorbs the high-quality products you apply to protect it. 

Taking care of your hair's keratin:

Once the keratin is damaged : 

• by the heat, I see you with your straighteners and curling irons
• I can also see you with your products full of allergens, silicones and sulfates.

There's no going back: the keratin will be destructured and will no longer be able to protect the hair. And when that happens, everything you dread appears: mega split ends, brittle hair that won't grow any more: the nightmare of long-hair addicts. 

By now, you're probably wondering what you can do to protect your keratin. Well, it's quite simple: for healthy hair, it's essential to protect your scalp. Within your scalp is the dermis, and within the dermis is the bulb, which in turn is in contact with the blood vessels that carry nutrients from your diet. 

Which leads me to the following revelation: your diet is also a key element for healthy hair. So if you're avoiding processed foods for energy, beautiful skin... know that all these efforts are also very helpful for your hair. 

Just as you avoid processed foods for your health, avoid them in your hair care products! Using the right products will also enable you to maintain the hair's hydration and resistance, so that its degradation outside the bulb takes place as slowly as possible. 

The main causes of split ends

Split ends, damaged hair: should you cut?

That's the answer most hairdressers will give, but it's not the only solution. To put all preconceived ideas to rest, we're going to teach you how to recognize and locate a fork. You can recognize a fork at the tip of the hair: a white spot means that the cuticle is damaged. 

To put you at ease, ladies, there's no such thing as a split-ends-free mane. 

A bit like a cellulite-free body. Prevention is the best way to protect your hair and limit split ends. Here are some examples and answers to why you split your hair: 

• Hormonal imbalance can affect hair quality.
• UV rays, humidity, pollution and rubbing against fabrics are the haunts of split ends.
• Public enemy number 1, the sulfate or sulfate derivatives in shampoos: with their strong detergent power, they attack the scalp. This aggression disrupts and destroys the sebaceous glands, leaving the scalp neither protected nor moisturized. Hair becomes fragile, dry and brittle, leading to the dreaded split ends. That's why it's so important to use only natural, sulfate- and silicone-free products.  

What today's consumers want from their beauty products 

The year 2020 and Covid-19 have brought about a change in the way people consume. The French are more concerned about the ingredients, provenance and eco-responsibility of their beauty products. Transparency and inclusiveness are now expected by consumers. People are returning to simpler, more natural routines.

The best thing is to know exactly what you're applying to your hair, and to that end, Yodi products are extremely easy to read, with the ingredients displayed on the front of the packaging - no secrets, just transparency, that's what Yodi promises. 

How to avoid split ends

Please note that the following information is of vital importance for LAF, the fight against fly-tipping. 

You're tired of running your hands through straw, you're super jealous of your girlfriends and their long, healthy hair: we've got solutions for you:  

• Stop Brazilian straightening and straightening in general. These solutions are unnatural and often result in very greasy hair that reveals a scalp in pain. 
• If you straighten your hair on a daily basis, never exceed 180° with your plates, hair dryers and straighteners. 
• Absolutely avoid accessories that cut or suffocate your lengths, such as elastics or hats, for very long periods of time.
• If possible, sleep on a silk pillowcase to avoid rubbing your hair during the night.
• Use shampoos and hair masks that are silicone-free, sulfate-free and as natural as possible.

How to care for split ends on a daily basis?

Too late, you've got split ends, and you're going to have to take extra care of your lengths to restore them to full health. If you've skipped the prevention stage, here are a few tips to fight the inevitable: 

• Don't hesitate to take dietary supplements with vitamin B, spirulina and anything else that will strengthen the immune system and consolidate the structure of the hair fiber.
• Eat as much fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables as possible
• Use only sulfate- and silicone-free shampoos 
• Stay hydrated (with water, as everything else is less healthy) 
• Use hair care products after each shampoo, preferably natural, and of course silicone-free, and once a week, make a mask before shampooing, leaving it on for several hours. 
• Soak your lengths in organic plant oils for at least 45 minutes. The best way to tighten scales is to use a warm towel to wrap your hair. 

How to shampoo successfully

Washing tips 

After split ends appear, we recommend a gentle, nourishing natural shampoo for daily use. Our Nutritive Argan powder shampoo is just the thing. 

If you have hair with oily tendencies, use a gentle shampoo that will lighten your roots and make your hair feel light. We recommend our best-selling Almond Milk Powder Shampoo. 

Distribute the powder evenly and lather gently - no need to rub your scalp too aggressively. 

Rinse well to remove any shampoo residue. Finish with cold water to boost blood circulation and add shine. 

A good natural conditioner after each shampoo will go a long way towards preventing split ends. If you don't, you can also give your hair a thick anti-forking treatment. 

After-wash tips 

How to dry your hair without damaging it:

1) Pre-dry your hair mass: the less water there is, the more hair will be protected from the heat of the dryer,
Before drying: don't hesitate to apply a thermo-protective serum to act as a heat barrier before drying,

2) Gradually increase the heat without exceeding 180°. Remember to use a blast of cold air at the end of the drying process, as this will close the scales and add shine,

3) Long live heat-free styling! If you're one of those patient girls, let your hair dry naturally. Use a towel to remove excess water. For the lengths, simply take your hair in the towel and press lightly. Repeat several times.

4) When it comes to hair dryers, leave nothing to chance and choose the right appliance. Straight hair will benefit from a nozzle to direct strands and relax lengths, while curly hair will prefer a diffuser. 

Why avoid shampoos containing sulfates?

The silicones and sulfates found in some shampoos coat the hair without moisturizing or nourishing it. They give the illusion of soft, silky hair right out of the shower. But make no mistake: suffocated hair becomes increasingly damaged under layers of occlusive agents.

To find out more about silicone and its properties, read our article on silicone-free shampoos.

What's more, silicones and quaternary ammoniums (compounds derived from ammonia) are totally useless for skin or hair health, and are even toxic in certain doses. They simply "slide" over the hair, sheathing it without moisturizing or nourishing it. Basically, they're band-aids on wooden legs. 

Moisturize your hair with vegetable oils 

To deeply moisturize your hair, there's nothing better than vegetable oils. Massage into the hair, paying particular attention to the ends, and leave overnight. In the morning, wash hair with our Nutritive Argan shampoo to gently cleanse. Your hair will feel soft to the touch - just what you've been dreaming of! 

In short, using the right natural products will give you a shiny mane that lasts over time. Not sure which oil to choose for your mane? Take a look at our article on vegetable oils.

Combating split ends: in a nutshell

5 golden rules from Dorian Schober, expert hairstylist for yodi 

@dorianschober

Dorian Schober, our hairdresser, has seen a lot of panic attacks, from girls and women whose obsession was to cut off more than half a millimetre of hair, to those who were hell-bent on using a straightener or a curling iron. He has gathered together some valuable advice and tips that we are delighted to share with you today: 

• Trim your ends regularly, and by regularly trimming a centimetre, you'll avoid having to trim much more in a few months' time. 
• Blow-dry from time to time to close the scales. 
• Apply the treatment properly. Put the mask on your damp lengths, make small strands and insist on pressing the treatment onto the strands. 

A super-cool tip that works well is to twist the strands with the treatment to make the treatment penetrate.